Maha's Lebanese Cuisine in Monterey

When our boisterous, former-East Coast extended family of mixed Levantine heritage descended upon the Monterey Peninsula for the holidays, it was with the assumption that we'd be relegated to the English-style sea fare for which Monterey is famed. Much to our delight, we happened upon Maha's Lebanese Cuisine. We felt immediately at home when we walked into the café's long, narrow, and high space reminiscent of those in Manhattan's East Village. Our reception by Souhail Aridi, Maha's husband, sealed our comfortable feeling: like a doting uncle, he graciously set about reconfiguring tables, chairs, and booster seats to ensure our welcome.

The ambiance at Maha's is both contemporary and old world, lending our time there more as a visit to relatives' house rather than a restaurant. Lebanese-born Maha makes all the food herself. My dad, who is especially used to homemade Lebanese cooking, enjoyed Maha's cooking as if in the kitchen of one of his own Maronite brothers. Maha employs such distinctive Middle Eastern spices and herbs as sumac, saffron, cumin and allspice, authenticating her recipes' origin. Her strategically placed olive oil, garlic, parsley, mint, lemon and tahini further distinguish her dishes as bona fide Lebanese.

Mentioning strategic placements, Souhail is also professor of Levantine Arabic at Monterey's Defense Language Institute. Despite having lived through war and conflict, he reflects an optimistic and compassionate attitude toward humankind. His hope is to create a space for dialogue, understanding, and peace. Forming it around a warm kitchen, to me, is both inviting and smart.

Maha's mezzesMaha's boasts a long list of mezzes—both hot and cold. When I ordered her ful mudammas (fava beans), which had run out for the evening, Maha personally came to the table and offered to make something similar with another legume she had on hand. Between her hummus, lebneh (yoghurt dish), tabbouleh, fattouche salad, fatayer (spinach pie), falafel, and kibbeh, we didn't miss the ful.

Though I didn't actually eat kafta kebabs, chicken shwarma or lamb kebabs, those at my table did so with gusto. I did, however, have the savory rice (the same rice upon which the kebabs are presented), deliciously steeped in saffron. Generous portions of everything render the menu perfect for family-style sharing. Maha's food is fresh, flavorful, and feels decidedly healthy.

Later in the evening, when my almost-three-year old nephew slipped from his chair and crashed head-first onto the floor (he's OK), both Maha and Souhail rushed parentally to his aid. In addition to being parents themselves, Maha's former career was in childcare. Little Vinny's spill negated any need for ordering dessert, as "Tante" Maha was swift in serving up sweets to ease the pain.

Her homemade date ma'amoul cookies were nearly intoxicating with the delicate essence of rose water and medjool dates. Finally, and probably much to the relief of the other diners, the baklava—always a family favorite when correctly made—induced a sweet, almost-silent reverie. Bidding farewell to our new, long-lost friends, we promised to return.

Maha's Lebanese Cuisine is open Tuesday through Sunday, and features belly dancing and Arabic music on the weekends. Find Maha's at 470 Alvarado Street, Monterey, CA 93940, 831.372.8999.

 
Mischa Geracoulis is Associate Editor of Levantine Review.